Victorian Banded Agate Maltese Cross Necklace

A stunning combination of brown and white banded agate accented by creamy pearls that is balanced beautifully by warm, rosy yellow gold. The use of these two gemstones is an unusual one to see. Banded agates were used since antiquity to carve cameos, which use the layers of colors to its advantage and create different relief layers to highlight certain features such as hair being a different color. By the end of the 19th century, the stone became beloved for its natural striation as is, and the banded agate became increasingly incorporated in classic, simple and geometric designs. The pendant is most likely a maltese cross, which stood for truth, loyalty, courage, faith, justice and mercy and traces its origins to the Order of St. John in the 16th century. In the Victorian era, it was a very popular motif because of the wealth of meaning that it stood for. This is a beautiful example of the cross and is delicately crafted with simple bezel setting around the agates juxtaposing the detailed bright-cut settings for the pearls that are accented with tiny granulation-like elements. I also love that the gold design incorporates neo-gothic elements that echoes the medieval cathedrals' masonry motifs. This piece is of a substantial size and weight and makes for an understated yet complex statement piece. An absolute treasure of a find.

Specifications

Vintage snake chain necklace is marked "GERMANY" "18k" and "750"
Necklace pendant acid test to be 14k gold

This piece is of substantial weight and size:
The cross pendant measures 28mm by 32mm and has total weight of 6.12g
The 18k snake chain necklace measures 16in and has total weight of 5.57g

Care

Due to the substantial size, the closed back structure (although no foil), and the stones in the design, it is recommended not to be submerged in water at any time.

Condition

In excellent condition commensurate with age. The pendant itself is a conversion piece likely from a central component of an antique bracelet made c. 1880-1890. This is evident from the fact that this pendant does not lay flat but has a slight curve to its structure, but it does not inhibit the wearing of it and lays well on the chest. The stones are all original and have very minor surface abrasion commensurate with age. Please note that the chain is from a later time, likely mid-20th century but the snake chain has solid weight and thickness which pairs beautifully with the substantially-sized cross pendant and is visually very cohesive together. The chain shows slight surface oxidation at places likely due to contact with cosmetics or chemicals in its history. Please note that the necklace is a pre-owned antique piece and is therefore not in mint condition. Sold as-is.